Observation from the Editor: Sagamore Spirit sent us a sample of this whisky to try out and evaluate. Under our editorial principles, this did not affect the result of this review in any way.
The idea for Sagamore Spirit came from Under Armour’s CEO Kevin Plank, and the distillery opened to the public for the first time that year (2017). He planned to make whisky using the Sagamore Farm water. This springhouse was constructed in 1909, and its water is filtered via limestone (thus 1909 on the labels). A high calcium content makes it a great candidate for use in making whisky, according to the business.
Sagamore Spirit’s Mezcal Cask Aged Straight Rye starts with rye aged four years in a Maryland-style barrel. Two mash bills, one robust in the rye and one low in the rye, are blended and matured in the distillery to create the base recipe. The whisky is proofed with this mystical water; however, some spirits are produced at MGP in Indiana. The heat of a Maryland summer will significantly affect the maturing hearts since the Brickhouse where they are stored is not air-conditioned.
A rye whisky made in this manner is often associated with the state of Maryland. The term varies across producers. This lack of a standardized formula has led to a degree of similarity among current Maryland makers, all of whom have their own conceptions of the style based on their own interpretations of history. Maryland rye is “sweeter than the rye manufactured further west, with less spice and a supple, possibly buttery taste,” giving newer distilleries something to unite behind. It is defined by Sagamore and others as having a mostly rye base with a significant amount of maize added for flavor and sweetness.
The distillation of whisky from rye was among the first uses of grain in the English colonies. According to the Maryland Distiller’s Guild, rye thrived in the state’s climate and provided a fertile environment for tobacco to flourish. With more and more people growing maize, the spirit world eventually caught on, too. Irish Catholics who had populated the region impacted distillation techniques since they favored distilled beverages that were not very harsh and often included some unmalted grains.
Sagamore has already produced an extra Anejo tequila-finished rye, so the mezcal cask-finished offering is not their first time experimenting with agave-spirit barrels. Mezcal, in contrast to tequila, is less strictly regulated in its manufacture. Only five states in Mexico are allowed to produce tequila from blue agave. On the other hand, Mezcal is often made in small batches by skilled artisans; thus, looser regulations sometimes translate to a better quality product. Aejo mezcal spends at least a year aging in oak barrels before it is considered drinkable.
Sagamore Spirit Mezcal Cask Aged Straight Rye Tasting Notes
Summary Data: 53% ABV, mash bill: at least 52% rye with a high percentage of maize, SRP $79/750ml bottle, aged for 4 years in new oak barrels and finished for 26 months in also mezcal casks.
Visually, this whisky has a dark brown hue with orange overtones.
The aroma is rich and decadent, with hints of chocolate and other sweets. I smell roasted marshmallows, toffee, and molten milk chocolate. This is fragrant, and the rich caramel and chocolate undertones make me think of tawny Port wine. Wow! As it breathes in the glass, it reveals raisiny PX sherry, pumpernickel bread, and Werther’s Originals aromas and flavors. There’s a smoky, waxy smell in the air once I’m done pouring, like a candle that’s been freshly extinguished. It packs a serious punch!
The first impression on the palate is a deep smokiness, like maple-cured bacon or charcoal. That’s the stuff of dreams for any pitmaster who specializes in barbecuing! Melted brown sugar with a dash of spices and clove round out the sweet taste. Given the potency of the aromatics, I expected this to be too much, but instead, I find it to be deliciously decadent.