When I started compiling my annual holiday whisky list, there was a little more fire in the snifters than usual. There were a startling number of new labels advertising triple-digit proofs when I convened my trusted panel of neighbors, friends, and spirits geeks to sample and evaluate the contenders. That’s because it’s become popular to buy American whiskies that are “cask-strength” (i.e., undiluted, unfiltered, and straight from the barrel), a trend that reflects the development of both domestic craft distillers and a consumer base that demands the best spirits in their most unadulterated, undiluted, and unfiltered forms.
The difference between a conventional 90-proof whisky reduced to 45% alcohol and the cask-strength spirits at my tasting, which varies from 110 to 126.5 percent, is “simply paying for additional water,” explains Robert Cassell of Kensington’s New Liberty Distilling. Distributors warned us ten years ago that selling cask-strength beer wasn’t profitable. But fans have pushed this forwards by stating things like, “I’m going to water it down my way, pour it over a huge ice cube, wait 30 seconds, and start drinking.”
We tasted (and sniffed and spat) our way through an all-time high of 53 bottles before narrowing it down to our top 16 picks. Not all of them are bulletproof. But you can get them all from local retailers in Philadelphia and South Jersey right now; they range widely in price, look, and provenance. A few of the foreign bottles are very interesting. This year’s selection may be heavy on the bourbon, but it also demonstrates that American distilling has finally come into its own, with vibrant corn terroirs mirrored in bottles from Iowa to Pennsylvania and Texas, and exciting growth in other malt-based spirits simply labeled “American whisky.”
So, fill up your snifter with some hefty ice cubes and continue reading.
Bowman Brothers Virginia Straight Bourbon Small Batch Whisky
This bourbon is triple distilled in Kentucky and then redistilled in Virginia before being aged on charred new wood, giving it a flowery, floral, custardy richness with hints of dry spice and peppercorns. This is a 750ml bottle of the Bowman Brothers Virginia Straight Bourbon Small Batch Whisky for $34.99 (PLCB 30488).
Makers Mark Cask Strength Bourbon
Our family has a long tradition of enjoying a red wax-sealed bottle of Maker’s Mark while relaxing on the porch during the warm summer months. The cask-strength version is best enjoyed beside a crackling fire in the winter, as it boosts the intensity of the classic wheat bourbon’s vanilla, citrus, and spice notes. (PLCB #97041) Maker’s Mark Cask Strength Bourbon, 750ml, 109.7 proof, $42.99
Cedar Ridge Iowa Straight Bourbon
One reviewer commented, “This is bang-on my grandmother’s Thanksgiving corn pudding,” after getting a whiff of the cob-fresh flavor powering this bourbon from Iowa corn land. Andrew Auwerda’s new BOTLD firm has lately welcomed several independent manufacturers to Pennsylvania, including the Quint family winery-turned-distillery. Sweeter and lighter on the palate than other bourbons, it bears a clear imprint of the fresh corn cultivated and milled on the Quints’ farm, giving it a very bright and lively character. At the BOTLD tasting room (119 S. 18th St., Philadelphia) or online (botld.com; Pennsylvania only) you may purchase a 750ml bottle of Cedar Ridge Iowa Straight Bourbon for $35 (86 proof).
Garrison Brothers Texas Straight Bourbon Boot Flask
For whatever reason, I can only imagine that a Texas distillery would package their bourbon in a flask shaped like a boot. The whisky made by Garrison Brothers is worthy of being taken on the road since the company farms its winter wheat and uses its well water. Flavors of cinnamon-spiced apples and tobacco follow the brown sugar pecan praline aroma. It turns out a Christmas stocking is the perfect size for this handy flask. PLCB 88168 is a $45.99 (retail) 375ml (proof) boot flask of Garrison Brothers Texas Straight Bourbon.
Old Tub
Old Tub was a limited edition that could only be purchased at the Jim Beam distillery store until 2020. I’m relieved, though, that it’s now available to the whole public. This is simply a higher-proof and unfiltered version of regular Beam with a focus on taste. Initially sweet, almost like marzipan, it develops a minty taste and a fiery finish on the tongue. Even if it won’t win over a collector, at $20, there aren’t many bourbons with a better story and flavor profile to serve as the centerpiece of a holiday party. PLCB Item #35990 is Old Tub, Bottled-in-bond, 100 proof, 750 ml, $19.99.