Each bottle of whisky has a history rooted in the distillery where it was created and the procedures that went into its production. Although millions of barrels of Scotch whisky are produced and aged each year, only a select few achieve legendary status. Even the distillers themselves may recognize exceptional bottles on occasion. However, it usually takes time for their excellence to become apparent. Dr. Craig Wilson is a specialist in finding rare and delicious whiskies.
Wilson, as Diageo’s Master Blender, has access to some of the world’s rarest and most unique single malts. Whisky blending is a highly skilled area in and of itself, but even fewer people have the knowledge to choose the best single malts and organize a collection. As the third curator of Prima & Ultima, Wilson follows in the footsteps of the previous two, Dr. Jim Beveridge OBE and Maureen Robinson.
“I began working basically as a taste chemist, trying to understand these great whiskies,” Beveridge reflects. I was given full reign to visit distilleries and observe production to learn how the process affects taste. The whiskies I selected are symbolic of the way I’ve constructed my own path as a mixer.
After that, Robinson made choices with a similar emphasis on growing the following year. In retrospect, she adds, “I’ve always worked behind the scenes, but it’s a joy to bring to the forefront a new dimension to the whisky business.” She has been involved in the Scotch industry for over 40 years. Having contributed to the sector’s development and the production of some excellent whiskies, I am justifiably proud of my accomplishments.
As with the previous two versions, Wilson’s third set of recommendations is marked by his unique perspective and deep familiarity with the reserve barrels.
Wilson adds, “I knew from the start that the greatest task would be selecting only eight wonderful whiskies.” “Each was chosen because it is of exceptional quality and promises a taste and history unheard of in our everyday lives. I consulted my notes on the many barrels I’ve cared for over the years, picking out those with the best flavor profiles and the most interesting histories.
Wilson was instrumental in supervising the latest Port Ellen releases and restoring the Brora spirit. Indeed, his exceptional understanding of the distilleries and their casks comes from his years of experience caring for the rare essences of two of Diageo’s most remarkable whiskies.
“Brora is particularly significant since I had the good fortune to watch the distillery reopening last year,” he says. Unsurprisingly, the third edition of Prima & Ultima has a particularly distinctive Brora. Given that this is the first bottling of Brora from 1981 and the final cask from that year, it is likely the rarest Brora ever made accessible to the general public.
Diageo Rare and Exceptional sells complete sets of both Prima and Ultima. Samples of 20 ml are included with each of the eight bottles of single vintage malt that make up the Prima & Ultima collection. None of these whiskies were chilled or colored. They retain their full flavor and aroma from their time in the barrel.